Allergic to hair dye? What we can still do for you

Yes, if you are allergic to hair dye you can often still have colour work done, but it depends on what you reacted to and how bad the reaction was. For most people the culprit is one ingredient, PPD, and there are ways to work around it. If your reaction was severe, the honest answer is no dye at all, and I would rather tell you that than risk it.

The short version

PPD is the ingredient behind most hair dye allergies. Foil highlights keep lightener off your scalp, so many allergic clients can still have them. "PPD-free" dye is not automatically safe. Many people react to the replacement too. A swollen face or trouble breathing after dye means no more dye, full stop. Every colour service here starts with a patch test 48 hours before.

Why people become allergic to hair dye

Most permanent colours, and some semi-permanent ones, contain a chemical called PPD (paraphenylenediamine). It is very good at giving deep, lasting colour, and it is also the ingredient most likely to set off a reaction. The NHS page on hair dye reactions is clear that symptoms can take up to 72 hours to show and range from itching and burning to blisters.

The part that catches people out is that you can become allergic after years of colouring with no problems at all. I have had clients who dyed their own hair every six weeks for a decade, then one day their scalp flared up. A black henna tattoo on holiday is another common trigger, because the paste is loaded with PPD and it can make you react to hair dye later.

If you have reacted before, tell us when you book. Knowing the product, how long after it started and what it looked like helps us work out what is still possible.

Colour options if you are allergic to hair dye

Foil highlights are usually the first thing I suggest. The lightener goes onto sections of hair inside foil packets and sits away from your scalp, and lightener works differently from PPD dyes. It can still irritate some people, so we patch test it the same as anything else. Partial foils are £40 to £60, a half head £55 to £65 and a full head £70 to £85.

Balayage is painted onto the hair and starts away from the root, so there is very little scalp contact. The catch is toner. Most toners are a form of dye, so if PPD is your problem we check the toner ingredients carefully, and sometimes we skip it and let your lightened hair sit at its natural tone.

If grey coverage is what you are after, grey blending with fine highlights softens the contrast between your natural colour and the greys without putting dye on the root. Single foils start from £5, which is handy if you only want a few pieces around your face and parting.

What about PPD-free and natural dyes?

Plenty of box dyes and some salon brands are sold as PPD-free. Many of them use a close relative called PTD instead, and a lot of people who react to PPD react to that as well. I would never put a PPD-free colour on someone with a known allergy without a patch test first, and even a clear test is no promise.

Pure henna from a proper supplier is a different product to black henna, but it has its own downsides. It is very hard to lift or change afterwards, and many salon services will not work over it. If you are thinking about henna, talk to us first so you know what it means for your options later.

When the answer is no dye at all

If you have ever had swelling around your eyes, face or lips after colouring, or felt short of breath, that was a serious reaction and I will not colour your hair with dye again. Please see your GP. They can refer you to a dermatologist for patch testing, which can pinpoint exactly which ingredient you react to.

That still leaves plenty. A good cut and finish (£42 to £55) can change how your hair looks more than most people expect. Extensions add length and volume with no colour at all, and tape extensions are £60 to £70 an hour. A blow dry at £28 to £35 is a nice lift before a big event.

How we keep you safe in the chair

Every client has a patch test at least 48 hours before any colour service, every time, even if you have been coming to us for years. We wrote about why we patch test everyone, every time if you want the full reasoning. For anyone with a past reaction, we test the exact products we plan to use, lightener and toner included.

During the appointment, tell us straight away if anything tingles more than you expect or starts to burn. We would much rather rinse early and rethink than push on. You can see all our colour prices on our pricing list before you come in.

If you are allergic to hair dye and not sure what is left for you, give us a ring on 01582 730381 or book online for a consultation and patch test. You will find us at Shop 660, Jansel House, Hitchin Rd, Stopsley, Luton LU2 7XH. We are open Tuesday and Wednesday 10 to 8, Thursday 10 to 6, Friday 10 to 3 and Saturday 10 to 4:30.